3D printed DC-15a

[Bally]

A few weeks ago I found out the guys upstairs at work got a new 3D printer. So I got the plans off Cmdrappo at CTN for a 3D printed DC-15a and got myself some material. At the recommendation of the engineer who's looking after it I got some PLA. 2kg for under $60 delivered is about the cheapest I've found.

Complete overview:


Started on some little stuff:


To be honest I'm not sure which way to go with it in the long run. I'm thinking that I should do a 3D printed run of the whole thing and then make a mold for resin casting the larger pieces (except I know nothing about it). In talking to one of the other guys in the same area today I've also found out he's got a CNC machine and thinks CNCing the larger parts would be a lot easier/quicker than 3D printing them.

[Bally]

Scope done. Still clearing out the supports from the recess in the large end.

[Altair]

Nice

Do you know how big the print platform is on the printer?

[Bally]

Yeah I was going to list the make/model for anyone who was interested in looking at the specs but I keep forgetting to get it.

The print bed is 300mm high and at least 200 x 200mm wide (possibly a little more). All of the pieces for this have been designed under 300 mm long to allow for printing on one that can do up that.

[Sly]

Nice.

[major payne]

Hey mate, great work on the parts. I am looking at getting a 3D printer soon, and have some questions:

1: When you build a 3d model. do you have to build the "framework" for the overhangs?
2: How do you set the fill? Do you have to do that in your design work, or is that a function that the printer can set?

[Altair]

Payney, the printer software should work out the framework and fill.

[major payne]

Payney, the printer software should work out the framework and fill.

Awesome, thanks John for the info

[Bally]

As Altair said (and I do not claim to be an expert on any of this at all) the software will do it automatically, however you can influence the overhang/supports and the fill density, etc and also set the wall thickness.

This is a mini bowling pin they stopped halfway though to show the insides.



Oh and the machine being used is an Ultimaker 2 Extended

[Bally]

Rear of the receiver and "bit that sits on top" done.





Leaving the butt to run over the weekend. 5 hours down, 53 to go.

[Bally]

After having 2 cracks at the butt which both stuffed up due to filament jamming, the guy at work with the CNC machine gave it a go.





Obviously it's done in 2 halves and still needs some tidying up. For some reason the groove that should be in the front end isn't there (might be a CNC issue) and there's a weird groove that's been taken out of one side at the rear. Nothing that can't be solved with some putty though.

[Studio 49]

I do love a good 3D printing project! It's looking great so far and I'm look forward to seeing the finished product.
I feel your pain with having to constantly remove scaffolding, rafts and sanding parts smooth but it's definitely worth it in the end!
What brand of 3D Printer is it since I'm looking at buying my own instead of using the Uni printers?

[Bally]

What brand of 3D Printer is it since I'm looking at buying my own instead of using the Uni printers?

Ultimaker 2 Extended

[Bally]

Rear barrel part done.

[Bally]

Magazine receiver done.



Edit: and the magazine. The internal supports are still in though.